We left Quebec City on a cloudy, rainy morning and headed off to drive around the Gaspe Peninsula – about 1000 km from what we had heard.  Our first night was spent in Rimouski, a town that I had heard of because they have a pretty good junior hockey team and seem to show up in the Memorial Cup quite often.  Other than that, we knew nothing.  We pulled into town late in the afternoon with the intention of finding a hotel.  Yes, we do stay in the occasional hotel and this was one of our planned nights.  It was pretty windy when we got there, but not raining, so after we found some Thai food for dinner, we headed over to the boardwalk for a stroll.  There is quite a nice bike lane running along the waterfront as well, but we were not tempted to take the bikes off the rack – way too windy!   

In the morning, we awoke to bright sunshine and were looking forward to our drive up the coast.  However, as soon as we finished up breakfast in the hotel restaurant, we saw that it was now raining – oh no!  Our hope to hike up in Gaspe Park near Sainte Anne Des Monts looked like it might be a wash.  Stopping at the local grocery to top up our ice and pick up a few groceries, we headed north in the rain.  As we drove along, we noticed a pair of cycle tourists pushing their way against the wind.  Although they were bundled up against the rain and cold, it did not look like a pleasant cycling day – I probably would have voted to not ride, but good on them!  The coastline was fairly flat along here and we began to think that cycling the Gaspe might be a wonderful trip sometime in the future, despite the wicked wind.   

As we pulled into Sainte Anne, the rain continued to fall and we had a choice to make.  It was too early to stop for the night in the van and too cold and wet to go for a hike as we had planned.  If we moved on, we would also miss checking out Mount Saint Pierre, a place we had heard about from another traveller sometime back in Ontario.  We decided to make a strategic decision and find a motel for the night.   

We checked out a couple and settled upon a sweet little one right on the waterfront.  It worked out well for us as we were able to relax for the afternoon as the rain continued to fall and then, when it finally petered out near dinner time, we walked a short distance for some fish and chips.  Even though there was no rain, wow!  The wind was just howling!!  Thankful to have a warm and safe haven for the night, we turned in, catching up on things and watching another episode of Breaking Bad (we will, eventually, get to the end, so don’t spoil it for us!).  Come morning, we had a delightful breakfast in the sunny dining room before walking along the waterfront just behind the motel and flying the drone for a bit. 

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We then packed up and headed up the hill to hike in the park.  We stopped to check out a lovely overlook where someone was fly fishing and caught site of some really big fish in the water below where we were standing.  We later found out that these were Atlantic Salmon and that fly fishing is pretty much the only way you can fish for them out here, due to the dwindling numbers.  I wonder if that is the fate of salmon fishing out west?   

While we stopped, we saw that this park (which says National Park of the Gaspe) required a pass.  We assumed that our National Park Pass would work, but when we showed up at the visitor’s centre, we were informed that this park is actually a Quebec Provincial Park and so our pass would not be valid, meaning we would have to pay another $16.00 for the privilege of walking in this park.  Since we had not planned a long hike here it was a quick decision to skip it and just head north.  Oh well, it was a lovely setting and I’m sure the hiking is great here, just not for us this trip. 

Heading north, we encountered breathtaking scenery as we drove along the coastline, which now became quite hilly indeed.  While it added to the beauty, it would create some challenges for cyclists.  However, we did see, all along our trip, many cycle tourists, all loaded up, so it is entirely doable.  Hmmm… we will think about it.   

Eventually we reached Mount Saint Pierre.  If we had not known about this place, we most certainly would have driven right past it.  As it was, the fellow who had told us about it had been so effusive in his praise for the fantastic views to be had from the top that we knew to look out for a tourist centre so we could make the trek up.  Thankfully, we stopped at just the right place and right time.  The drive up can only be accomplished in a 4 wheel drive vehicle (our you can hike up – ugh!).  They had a bus so equipped and it was leaving in just a few minutes – perfect!  We happily paid for our tickets and hopped on the little school bus which had been jacked up to make this mountain climb (8 times a day!).  Our driver, a very nice young woman, showed no fear as she took up up the steep steep climb that caused my heart to pound as I looked out over the edge of the road and down the steep drop right next to it.  Good thing she had plenty of experience and her confidence quickly put my fears to rest.  Eventually we came out at the top and all I can say is wow!  It was truly incredible!   

This is a place where people come to hang glide and we were so fortunate as to arrive as one fellow was getting ready to take off.  We watched as he checked his gear and then, with confidence, walked up to the launch spot.  He didn’t even need to jump, just stood and waited until the wind picked up his hang glider and off he went.  Oh my, what a rush that must be!  But, its one I will never experience as even watching this expert take off made me feel quite ill.  Oh well, you don’t have to do everything, right?  We stood and watched as the flyer soared out in front of us and then, magically, picked up a good updraft and was soon high above us.   

We took some pictures and looked around some more before it was time for us to head down.  The trip down was about as scary as the trip up, so I distracted myself by looking everywhere but where we might end up if our driver made a wrong move.  Soon we were back at the bottom, and thanking our driver, we looked up at the sky to see the hang glider still far far above us.  I would image he would have been up for a couple of hours and we understand that hang gliders can stay up for many many hours when the wind is favorable.  Wow!!!!   

With time still left in the day, we moved on.  Our goal for the night was near Forillon National Park.  Our intention was to stay in a parking lot of the lighthouse there, but before arriving, we stopped in at the Visitor’s centre for the park and found that there were lots of camping spots still available in the park.  The woman at the centre showed us so many wonderful things to do in the park that we were convinced to go to the campground for a few days.  We did stop at the lighthouse and our decision was confirmed as it was right on the highway and it would have been a noisy night.  With our Canada Park Pass, our entrance to the park was already paid for and the camping fee was only $25.00 per night.  We arrived, chose a spot and drove into the Cape Rosebush Campground to find the most lovely site we have had yet (or ever I think)!  We had plenty of trees and bush around us to feel like we were all alone.  The other campers were very quiet, which added to the pleasant atmosphere.  A short distance away was the best looking camp facilities we have ever enjoyed.  A place to sit at tables in foul weather, complete with a wood burning fireplace, sinks with hot water to wash dishes, clean bathrooms and free showers – oh my!  We were in camper’s heaven!   

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We turned in early, intending on getting up at 5:00 to catch the sunrise from the beach, which we had heard was spectacular.  At that early hour there were already a few other observers there, so we set up to enjoy the show.  Well, let’s be clear.  Jim set up to take pictures and I wrapped myself up in the blankets we had brought and just enjoyed myself.  It was most certainly worth getting up early as the sun hitting the rock face made for a spectacular scene.  

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Of course, once we were done, we headed back the van and to bed for another couple of hours sleep!  Later in the day, we drove to the south end of the park to check out what was there.  First stop was the old company store, where we saw examples of what kinds of things people in the early 1900s would pick up from the only store around.   

After that, we headed to the dock to find out about whale watching tours.  We had been on one one the West Coast, thanks to our daughter, Annie, and have seen Orcas, but the chance to see other species of whales was enticing.  We signed up for a tour the next morning before heading up to park at the far end of the park where we could embark on a 3.5 km hike up to the lighthouse at Land’s End.  When we got to the parking lot, however, we took a look at the trail and I convinced Jim that it was totally rideable.  So, off came the bikes, on went our cycling gear and off we rode.  It was rocky, but really not too bad at all.  Well, not bad, that is, until we reached the last .6 km which was just one long, long, steep hill.  Oh boy!!!  We both grumbled a bit (and I felt pretty guilty for talking us into this) but there was nothing to do but take a big breath and head up.  We stopped for little breaks, but eventually I couldn’t get any traction to get back on, so I walked up the last third (Jim, of course, was able to ride the whole way!).  Once we reached the top, the view was, as you might imagine, just wonderful.  There were many hikers sitting and enjoying the space.  We, as well, sat for a while, eating the snacks we had brought and drinking plenty of water while enjoying this very special view.   

Eventually it was time to head down and unfortunately, due to the rocky nature of the trail, we had to go very very slowly indeed, all of the way back down the long hill.  My hands were cramping by the time we reached bottom, so we had to stop for a bit just to loosen them up.  But the rest of the trip back to the car went by in a flash, and in the end, I think we were both really happy that we had ridden on this day.   

Back at our camp site, we enjoyed a quiet evening, going down to the beautiful beach to sit and watch the day end before hitting the hay, excited for our whale watching adventure the next day.   

When we arrived in the morning, there was a full boat of people from all over.  Our interpreter, whose name I can’t remember (sorry!), did a great job of explaining everything in both French and English.  We were all equipped with yellow rain coats and had worn lots of layers in case it was cold out on the water.  As it turned out, the day was warm and sunny and so the rain coats were really not needed although we wore them anyways.     

When we first signed up for this tour, we knew there were no guarantees that we would see any whales at all.  We were hopeful that we would maybe see one or two, but you just never know.  It’s a lot of water out there in the Gulf of St. Lawrence and we were in one small boat.  So, when the first spout was seen and we all looked over to see what our interpreter told us was most likely a Fin whale, we were excited.  Yes!  We saw a whale!  Then, shortly thereafter, another spout was seen – actually, three spouts!  We watched, enthralled, as three Humpback whales surfaced a few times before diving.  As they dove, their tail flukes could be clearly seen, rising out of the water and signalling a deep dive that would probably last about 5 minutes.  Wow!  How do you top that?  Well, soon we did!  This time, the largest animal on earth surfaced – a Blue whale!!!  Holy Cow!!!  I was beside myself with excitement and it was a good thing Jim had hold of the camera as I probably would have dumped it overboard!  This went on and on for the entire time we were out on the water.  One whale would surface and we would either follow behind or along side, or if they were coming our way stop the engines entirely. At times, when the engines were stopped, the whales would swim by, their spouts breaking the silence as we all watched in awe.  It is just so amazing to see these wonderful creatures in their own habitat and realize how gigantic they are.  At one point, the group of three Humpbacks surfaced quite close to our boat and dove not more than maybe 30 feet from us.  There are just no words to describe this wonderful wonderful day.  My face hurt from smiling and everyone on board felt like we had shared the most incredible moment.  Later, as we finally headed towards shore, I asked our interpreter if this was a normal day and she said no.  Most days, you are lucky to see a couple of whales.  This day was just one of those amazing moments in time that each and every one of us will always remember.  What an incredible fantastic day!!! 

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Finally back on shore, we had a quick snack before heading back up towards our campground.  We had one more little stop to make before leaving this wonderful park in the morning.  There is a little waterfall, reached from “la chute” trail that we wanted to see.  We seem to have a thing for waterfalls on this trip!  The falls did not disappoint.  Although small, they were lovely, running over mossy covered rocks to create a peaceful almost spa-like setting.  There was even one of the famous red chairs set up there!   

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Picture taking done at the falls, we hiked up the back side of the falls to discover yet another beautiful little stream, weaving in between moss covered rocks.  It looked almost like a pyramid, the way the rocks were stacked up and the effect with the water flowing over the top was magical. 

But, all good things must come to an end, and so this day, and our time at Forillon, did.  Towards the end of the day, clouds moved in, and by morning the rain was falling once again.  We had managed to come to this wonderful park at just the right time!  So fortunate!  We drove off through the rain, stopping briefly at Perce rock to get the obligatory pictures of this famous spot before driving away from the Gaspe.  We will always remember our time out here as one of the most special, magical moments of our trip.